Carlo Piccoli, master of artisanal cheeses and founder of the Accademia Internazionale dell’Arte Casearia inItaly, is one of the most respected artisans in the field. He is widely recognized for his dedication to preserving tradition while embracing innovation in the world of cheese-making. For REVINO, Carlo shared the story of how he turned his passion for milk and cheese into a center of excellence for education and research, discussing the challenges of the industry and the importance of authentic taste in an increasingly standardized world.
Carlo’s journey into the world of cheese began at the age of 20, when he took his first steps as an artisanal producer, fascinated by the infinite potential of milk. As he grew professionally, he discovered the joy of experimenting with different types of milk, from cow’s to goat’s and sheep’s, and of understanding how each source influences the final flavor of the cheese. At 27, he decided to turn his passion into a business: he founded his own workshop, where he began crafting unique cheeses for both the local and international markets. In 2011, he established the Accademia Internazionale dell’Arte Casearia, a space dedicated to those who want to learn or deepen their knowledge of the art of cheese-making. Today, he combines hands-on production with teaching and consulting, sharing his expertise in Italy and around the world.
In the Veneto region, influenced by Swiss and French traditions, artisanal cheeses have evolved dramatically over the past four decades, diversifying and enriching the local dairy landscape. And the unique terroir of the Prosecco area naturally fosters a special harmony between wine and cheese: many wineries incorporate local cheeses into their tastings, creating an authentic experience for visitors. It’s a story of flavors, traditions, and innovation, where wine and cheese come together to tell the story of their land.
When and how did you start teaching cheese-making courses? What were they like in the beginning?
I started teaching dairy courses in 2001, and from the start, they were quite similar to how they are today. Even back then, the approach was highly practical and intense: participants aim to absorb the maximum amount of information in the shortest time possible. For this reason, alongside teaching cheese-making techniques, the courses have always included fundamental aspects like managing ripening, packaging, refining, and the overall organization of a dairy workshop.
The "Fundamentals of Cheese-Making" course is very comprehensive and has always been taught in this way. Over the years, we’ve also added specialized courses focusing on specific themes.
As a teacher, do you continue learning too? How have you prepared yourself to improve your knowledge about cheeses in general, not just Italian ones?
Absolutely! A teacher must always keep learning. In my case, I’ve built strong relationships over time with many top dairy technologists, both in Italy and abroad. This constant exchange allows me to stay updated, discover new techniques, and deepen my understanding of cheese-making traditions beyond the Italian context. Also, teaching itself is a huge learning opportunity: every course is an exchange, and often, the students, with their questions, experiences, and curiosity, inspire me with new ideas and perspectives. For me, teaching also means continuous learning.
What types of cheeses do you currently produce at Castello di Formeniga within the Accademia Casearia? Tell us a bit about their structure and how long they last.
During the "Fundamentals of Cheese-Making" course, each day is dedicated to practical work: participants work directly with milk to produce robiola, soft or semi-soft cheeses like "Ludovico," as well as yogurt, strained yogurt, mozzarella, stracchino, and blue cheeses. It’s the most comprehensive course at the Academy and runs for five days.
In addition, we offer specialized courses focused on specific types of cheese. Among these are courses dedicated entirely to blue cheeses and one on "Mozzarella and Burrata." These shorter modules typically last two or three days.
Do you also teach cheese-making courses abroad? Which countries do you visit most often?
Yes, over the years I’ve had the pleasure of training students in various countries around the world. The places I return to most frequently include Japan, Brazil, Hungary, and Korea.
Is there demand in Italy for producing international-style cheeses? If so, which types are most sought after?
In Italy, there isn’t much activity focused on international-style cheeses. The country’s cheese production is still strongly tied to tradition. Most cheeses follow typical, DOP recipes or have strong local or brand-specific identities, and they are then exported because of these unique characteristics.
Do people from Romania come to learn how to make cheese?
Yes, so far, I’ve trained around six people from Romania.
Tell us three Italian and three international cheeses that you like.
Among the established Italian DOP cheeses, I’d say Gorgonzola, Grana Trentino, and Puzzone di Moena. For international cheeses, I really enjoy Gruyère, French Comté, and cave-aged Emmentaler.
Why should a good cheese be paired with a good wine? What’s your favorite pairing?
My favorite pairing is always with aromatic white wines, I find it’s the perfect match.
There are also cheeses that go well with traditional-method sparkling wines, and others, perhaps more pungent ones, that pair wonderfully with passito wines.
Website www.accademiacasearia.com
